All Things Wine. That is what it says on my business
card. I sort of like the phraseology.
It doesn’t pigeonhole me into anything in particular in the world of wine,
which is beneficial for exploratory
purposes, but I don’t totally love it. Even though the following phrases describe
the different things I do, I don’t do backflips over these either:
Wine Writer-It’s too
limiting.
Wine Blogger-It
can be too controversial and sometimes garners a lack of respect.
Wine Consultant-Seems
too slick.
Wine Educator-Not
particularly hip and a little snoozy.
Wine Enthusiast-Not
really professional enough.
Wine Pairing Advisor/Party
Maven-Sounds too soshy and chick-like.
I guess what is best about All Things Wine is that it allows me to pursue numerous interests within
the world of wine, especially something that I find to be pretty groovy: wine competition
judging.
At the grocery store you’ve likely seen the little gold,
silver and bronze medal stickers stuck on random bottles of wine. Maybe you’ve seen a shelf promotion, or you’ve
spotted medals and ribbons hanging around certain bottles in your local tasting
room. Last year I decided to navigate
my way into the origin of all that fanfare: the wine judging scene. I scored a gig as a guest media judge at the
State Fair; it was a fabulous opportunity to learn about the process and get to
know some of the players.
Last week I served as a Guest Judge at the El Dorado County
Fair Commercial Wine Competition. My
panel consisted of myself and three seasoned veterans from the judging circuit:
one a local winemaker, another a local wine consultant, the other a well-known local
wine educator/author/radio personality and former SacBee Journalist (hmm, Sacto
friends, who could that be??). Judging
is a focused, concentrated wine tasting effort.
There is constant note taking and except for the sound of gurgling and
spitting, much of the time it is quiet.
Panels were assigned their varietal flights at the beginning
of the day; our panel had chardonnay, zinfandel, Italian red blends, Syrah and
merlot. The number of wines within each of
our flights varied from 5-12; we also had a handful of best of show flights at
the end of the day that needed to be rated as well. All in all, we tasted over 60 wines.
In competitions like this one, wines are poured in a
secluded area and presented to each panel blind; each glass is labeled with its
associated bottle i.d. number. Using a
system I refer to in my appreciation classes as S-5 (see, swirl, sniff, sip
and savor), judges assess each wine on its appearance, aromas, flavors,
texture, finish, beneficial features and flaws.
They also search for wines with excellent varietal characteristic and
finesse. Wines are scored individually
and if there are any outlier scores, re-tasting occurs, subsequent discussions
ensue, and a final panel award is assigned.
This process serves as an effective check against personal palate preference
or even a bit of tasting fatigue. As a
guest judge, my scores and discussions were respected and considered by the
panel, but not technically considered in the final award designation. Far more often than not, there was consistent
agreement when it came to assessing the wines in our flights.
Trying to wiggle one’s foot in the door of the wine judging
world is not for the faint of heart. It
takes sensory skills, tasting acumen, professionalism, persistence, a bit of
self-promotion and a ton of patience. You didn’t hear it here, but I have noticed
that the domain of wine judging appears to be a bit of a man’s world. That’s ok with me though because the
particular group of gentleman I worked with last week provided congenial collaboration
and gracious mentoring, as well as some pretty good tips on how to avoid being
struck by lightning on the golf course.
Heading out today to the Art and Wine Festival in Winters, CA. The family-run wineries of Yolo and Solano County, east of Napa, north of the Delta, and West of Sacramento, will be pouring their wines. Looking forward to this focused study on terroir. Here is a listing of the participating wineries. I've been a fan of Turkovich, especially their tempranillo, and the sparkling viognier from Capay Valley Vineyards. Sure to discover some new favorites. xo SB
If you take time to tune in to your inner voice, you may find
that many of you are seasonal beings. It’s
about this time of year that you start craving strawberries, cherries and begin
that yearning for bbqs and watermelon.
Whether your cravings are simply a Pavlovian response to the longer,
warmer days, or your altered needs are biological in nature, chances are, you
are ready for a wine change as well.
About 2 weeks ago I started thinking pink. Spring was in full bloom and all I could
think about was heading to the Farmer’s Market
to grab fresh produce so that I could create something that would
accompany Rose’, my pink obsession. An
old standby for me is Chateau du Rouet; I pick it up in the fridge section at
Corti Bros. This Provencal example is classic:
bone dry and laden with satisfactory
fruity flavors that don’t disappoint.
And BTW, the bottle is adorable.
Rose’ is a French term .
This same style of wine is called rosato in Italy, rosado in Spain, Weissherbst in
Germany and on occasion, blush, in the U. S.; blush is usually reserved for wines with
residual sugar, but not always. Typically rose’ is made from red grapes that
aren’t overly tannic. Common grapes
include grenache, mourvedre, sangiovese, and tempranillo. The grapes are pressed quickly to avoid
extended contact with skin and seeds. Wines
are then cold fermented in stainless steel tanks; very rarely does rose’ see oak. The cooler the temperature in the environment
during pressing and fermentation, the more fresh fruity flavors will show in
the final wine. Rarely, but at times,
some wineries do a quick and dirty blend of white and red to create rose’.
Rose’ is hugely popular in Europe, and especially
France. In the south of France,
Provence, in particular, rose’ accounts for 87% of their wine production. And if you’ve ever been there during the
summer, you see nearly every restaurant table bedecked with a bottle of salmon
colored wine. Its lower alcohol level
(usually under 13%) also makes it a perfect daytime sipper. In addition to rose’ out of Provence, look
for producers from Bandol, Rousillon,
and the Rhone regions of Lirac, and Tavel.
You’ll also find examples out of the Rioja region in Spain, like Marques
de Caceres (large U.S. distribution).
From Italy, look for off-dry and sweet examples labeled Lambrusco out of
the Emilia-Romagna and drier examples out of the Veneto region. You may have to experiment to find the exact
dryness level you enjoy, but know that chances are really good that the pink wines
will be sweeter out of Lambrusco and also many out of Germany.
As far as U.S. rose’
goes, there are plenty. Ask your wine
merchant for their recommendation, or check with your favorite local producers
as many have one of these light pink wines amongst their offerings. In general, you can usually find a very tasty
bottle for under $15. I could tell you more examples of what I like,
but then you’d just be frustrated when you couldn’t find them in your area….so
venture out wine soldier!
I savor rose’ because
it is deliciously easy to drink and can be combined with an abundant number of food
dishes. Drinking this wine symbolizes
relaxation and freedom and reminds me of Barcelona, Avignon, Minervois,
Carcasonne and Aix, and of reading A Year in Provence, and of cicadas. It inspires me to garden, to buy flowers, and
to spend time dining with friends in the backyard. My gosh, why would I NOT drink this
wine? xoSB
There has been an abundance of talk in the Sacramento area lately about the Farm to Fork movement. As a matter of fact, our City is trying to brand itself as the Farm to Fork Capital of America! That is cool; it's an exciting time in the locavore movement. In support of that, I thought it would be beneficial to apply this philosophy more directly to wine. While wine is certainly lumped into farm to fork theory by some, I believe it deserves it own limelight; it's own appreciation campaign.
I am, therefore, excited to launch Grape to Glass: Wines of the Sacramento Region. I consider this to be a grassroots community movement to promote the appreciation and consumption of local wines. From the Delta to the Foothills, from the Valley floor to the Capay, this region is teaming with talented winemakers producing wines from amazing harvests. There is something for everyone: Chenin Blanc, Zinfandel, Barbera, Moscato, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and so much more.
I have established a Facebook page with the above title, http://www.facebook.com/GrapeToGlassWinesOfTheSacramentoRegion?ref=hl and a Twitter account @sacgrape2glass. These will be spots that facilitate conversation and share information about local wines, their characteristics and their ability to express vineyard terroir. They will profile vineyard agriculture, winery operations and creative winemakers. Hopefully we will ALL talk about how wine can be an integral part of any locavore, slow-food, and sustainable lifestyle. (Note: if you head over to Facebook, be sure to hit the LIKE button at the top of the page. "Liking" and "Sharing" pages on fb gets the message out to more people. And don't fret my wine friends, if what you're really looking for are good wine recommendations, there will be a plethora of those as well. As a matter of fact, here's one to try:
Boeger '09 Migliore Reserve from the El Dorado AVA. This smooth and delicious red blend of 52% Refosco, 32% Aglianico and 16% Carignane is a treat and worth its price tag of $25. FYI, you can find many local wines for under $20; we'll talk about those soon.
I encourage you to start talking up Grape 2 Glass and let's see where it takes us. I have some preliminary ideas and would love to see the movement become influential in the wine retail and local restaurant arenas. Feel free to share your thoughts as well, as every idea is a jump start to the next. Join me in this movement and drink local!
If I read one more book, article or blog on Japanese sake my
head is going to explode. I didn’t know
a thing about sake before agreeing to write this story for Edible Sacramento, but I figured a wine writer can write on rice
wine, right (lol--say that phrase 3x fast). See, I’d had sake with sushi rolls, maybe
four times, both warm and cold so I thought ‘what the heck—sake, no problem’. Now you can see why there haven't been many blog posts of late....I have been inundated learning about sake!
Well right out of the box during preliminary research I was
humbled to learn sake isn’t even a wine (uh-oh), and, I guess traditionally, you’re
not supposed to drink it while eating any rice products (oops), 0 for 2! I’m sure you’ve been there before: you’re trying to learn about something you are
completely unfamiliar with, and essentially, your brain thinks it’s reading a
foreign language. Well, with sake, that
is literally so. Not only is there an
entire scientific process of production that I needed to understand, but so
many terms used to describe said production, as well as the classification
system of sake, are all in Japanese,
a language I know nothing about. In
addition, because there is ancient history and tradition associated with the
consumption of sake that too, adds to the complexity of the subject, not to
mention that information on this topic can be vague or at times conflicting. Suffice it to say, I quickly realized I had
better backtrack and start this culinaryesque journey where all such local
journeys begin, with Darrell Corti.
Most long-time Sacramentans, and many people worldwide for
that matter, know that this star of the grocery world has significant expertise
in the realms of wine, olive oil and imported international food products. But I was surprised to learn that Mr. Corti is
also a world renowned non-Japanese expert on sake. As a matter of fact, his knowledge on the
history, tradition, production and quality of sake is encyclopedic. For the last 10 years, Darrell has taken part
in the Joy of Sake, an annual tasting competition of Japanese sake held in
Hawaii. He is one of a very few
non-Japanese judges to participate and is well versed in the finer aspects of
tasting and appreciating this rice beverage.
For our interview, Darrell took me behind the scenes at Corti Brothers
on Folsom Boulevard in East Sac to educate me on the world of sake. Thanks to this gracious and proper gentleman,
I know quite a bit more about sake these days.
For an hour and a half I was basically treated to an advanced beginning/intermediate
course in sake. Mr. Corti taught me
fermentology, discussing all of the important steps in the sake brewing
process, he taught me sake appreciation, discussing the quality levels of sake
and its characteristic aromas and flavors.
He covered cultural anthropology by teaching me the history and
traditions of Japanese sake customs. In
essence, he was my sensei, and I am
grateful.
What also helped to clarify some of the mysteries of sake was
taking a tour of the local Gekkeikan factory in Folsom. Vice President of Production William Piper
led me and my trusty side-kick, photographer Penny Sylvia (www.pennysylvia.com) through this state
of the art sake brewery. Penny took the great shots included in this post! Gekkeikan, a
nearly 400-yr old company in Fushimi, selected Folsom as its first western outpost
based upon its access to high quality rice from the Sacramento Valley and its access
to good sake water. Fushimi, which
is in the Kyoto prefecture, and in the Kinki sake brewing region, is the second
greatest area of Japan in terms of sake production. The water of Fushimi is soft with a low mineral
content, a combination known to produce fine sake. In Folsom, the local water, which originates
in the Sierra Nevada, is also soft, and provides everything Gekkeikan needs to
make traditional sake. The production is
pretty impressive and includes bags, bags and more bags of rice, labs,
steamers, pipes, fermentation tanks, aging tanks, bottling lines, loading
docks, tasting facilities and even a palate loading robot. I was particularly charmed by a sign I kept
seeing throughout the brewery on many pieces of equipment, the Japanese characters were a traditional
prayer to the sake god.
First and foremost, sake is not technically a wine; it is
closer to a beer. Wines are made from
fruits that contain natural sugars that in the presence of yeast ferment into
alcohol and a bit of CO2. That process
is called fermentation. Sake is made
from grain, specifically, rice. Grains
contain starches, and thusly sugars, but those sugars can’t be utilized for
fermentation until they are released from the starch. An added enzyme is needed to break down that
starch into simple sugar molecules that will undergo fermentation once put in
contact with yeast. This breakdown of
starches into sugars by enzymatic action is called saccharification. We
commonly associate saccharification with the brewing of beer, malt being the
enzyme that breaks down the barley to release the sugars so that later, alcohol
fermentation can take place.
Sake takes its slight turn from beer brewing, in that unlike
beer; saccharification does not occur first, followed by fermentation, in sake,
the two processes occur simultaneously in what is termed a “multiple parallel
fermentation”. Another big difference is that the enzyme used
in sake production to break down the rice starch isn’t malt, its koji-kin.
Koji-kin is cool,
so cool; I’m thinking it would be a good name for a tiny dog. It’s actually a mold called aspergillus oryzae
that gets sprinkled onto steamed rice (koji-kin
+ steamed rice is referred to as koji ) so that the mold can burrow all
the way to the center starchy portion of each grain, breaking the starch into
the simple sugars that the yeast will use in fermentation. This is one of the most critical steps in the
sake making process as the koji is
very temperamental, the rice and mold requiring precise conditions to bloom and
infiltrate each rice grain. It takes
years of experience and clever intuition to understand how to get the koji just right. Koji is
a big contributor to any sake’s flavor profile and successful mold propagation is
just one of the many responsibilities of the person who oversees sake
production, the specially trained brewmaster called the toji.
In the sake brewery, while koji is being prepared, yeast is also being cultivated to get ready
for potential use in the next batch of sake.
Yeast is taken from the vats of successful batches of sake and cultured
in a lab. As in winemaking, there are
many different strains of yeast, each bringing different flavors and aromas to
the finished product. Selections are
made by the toji to ensure the
desired flavors and aromas of a particular sake are achieved. Once the exact specifications of both yeast
and koji have been met the multiple
parallel fermentation process begins.
First, a yeast starter called shubo or moto is created using a new batch of steamed rice, water, koji, and the specially selected yeast
cells called kobo. Sometimes lactic acid is added to soften the
texture. This shubo percolates away anywhere from 1.5 to 2 weeks, with the yeast
cells multiplying and the slurry foaming away.
The next step is to move the shubo
into a large fermentation tank where it’s a bit of a redoux: add more steamed rice, add more water, add
more koji, all done in three stages
over four days. This new liquid, called moromi, is both fermenting and
saccharifying while it continues to double in size with each successive
addition. The moromi stays in this tank for about a month. When the sake is determined to be just right,
it is pressed through an accordion-like machine to separate the clear liquid
from the white lees (yeast residue) and unfermented solids. In some traditional breweries, the moromi is placed into large canvas bags
and the sake is squeezed out. If the
sake is not squeezed out of the bags, but left to drip out in a “free run”
process, that resultant sake is called shizuku. Gekkeikan
uses one of the accordion-like devices and the lees and solids (spent grains)
remaining after the press, called kasu, are
collected and recycled as feed extender for local cattle and pigs. I was actually there on a day when a cattle
farmer from Wilton arrived to pick up the kasu. Apparently, there is quite a bit of protein
and some interesting flavor left in the material. Even Mr. Piper has reused the byproduct
himself wrapping trout in rehydrated strips before cooking, a practice not
uncommon in Japan.
After the sake sits a few days and solids settle out, it is
charcoal filtered to manipulate flavor and coloring and then heat pasteurized through
piping for stability. There are some
types of sake that are unfiltered (nigori)
and others unpasteurized (namazake). As one would expect, unpasteurized namazake requires refrigeration. After these processes, most sake is aged up
to about six months. Some special sakes
are aged for a few years; they are called koshu,
meaning ‘old sake’ and are reminiscent of sherry. Some other styles of sake
include kimoto and yamahai, both of which involve
specialized brewing techniques and wild yeasts which result in eccentric,
gamier, umami-laden sakes. These sakes tend to have more of a wine-like flavor
profile. When aging is completed, most sake
is typically blended with water to bring the alcohol level down. Sake normally ferments to about 20% alcohol; blending
typically dilutes it down to somewhere near 15%. Sake which is undiluted is sold as genshu.
Once blended, most sake is re-pasteurized, bottled and shipped.
In discussing the
production process we’ve learned how water, koji
and yeast can all impart their influence on the flavors aromas and quality
of sake, but there is another major influence, and I’ve saved its discussion
for last….it’s the rice. It can be presumed,
of course, that rice variety affects the final product, but even more
importantly it’s something called the rice polishing ratio that really makes
the difference. Sake’s quality
designation is a reflection of its rice polish ratio, and this ratio is the
amount of milling the rice receives to remove the outer layers of the
grain. Those outer layers contain
proteins, lipids and amino acids that provide unwanted flavors and aromas to
sake. The ultra-premium sakes (daiginjo) use rice where 50% or less of
the original grain remains after polishing, this category subdivides even more as
the best of the best mill down to 40% or even 30%. Premium sake (ginjo) has a polish ratio of 60% or less. Occupying the lowest end of quality sakes are junmai and honjozo; both have a polish
ratio of 70% or less.
Understanding the classification system for sake can be
confusing, but here is a very basic chart to help you out. These terms are important to become familiar
with because if you want to purchase sake in the store, you are going to need
to understand some of the information you’ll see on the bottle. Note that most of these words can also end in
the suffix –shu , which just means
‘alcohol’, and the quality sakes can be further classified with many descriptive
Japanese adjectives like those mentioned above (daiginjo, ginjo, nigori, koshu, etc.). You might also see the word tokebetsu which is generic for ‘special’
and can pretty much mean anything.
Now test yourself: if a
sake was listed as a Junmai genshu
daiginjo, Hyogo prefecture what is it?
Yes, you’re right; it’s all natural, undiluted and ultra-premium (50% or
less polish ratio) from the Hyogo Prefecture in Japan! Sometimes you’ll spot a label with a Sake
Meter Value. The numbers usually range
from a +15 (dry) to a -15 (sweet); a sake valued at 0 is considered
neutral.
So let’s talk about why you should be drinking sake. For one, it’s become very in vogue in
restaurants across the country. In San
Francisco one of the current premier dining spots, Quince, has a small Sake & Crudo Menu with
pairings like “Steelhead gravlax with persimmon, radish and garlic chive with
Tedorgawa Kinka, Nama Daiginjo, Ishika Prefecture “. In addition, they offer three sakes by the
glass. Here in Sacramento, I found an
impressive sake menu at Kru in Midtown. With
approximately 25 bottles available, and offerings by the glass (4 cold and 1
hot), this is the place to experiment locally.
Bottles of different sizes range in price from $8 - $150 and are
available in a number of styles and from a variety of Japanese regions. I like that the menu is categorized by rice
polishing ratio. Visit the Edible website soon www.ediblecommunities.com/sacramento for tasting notes from my visit to Kru and Gekkeikan. When tasting, it is best to drink from the top
down (daiginjo-ginjo-junmai/honjozo)
so that the delicacy of the higher qualities aren’t lost. Another reason you should be drinking sake is
that it doesn’t fight with food. Junmai with its rich, heavy body pairs
well with foods that typically like red wines.
A rich aged sake like juyondai from the Yamagata prefecture is a perfect
match for savory seafood like crab, and most
ginjo-shu (see, I added the
suffix for the heck of it) and daiginjo-shu like
raw or seared fish and light foods like vegetables or chicken. Darrell Corti finds ginjo-shu to be an interesting accompaniment to both Roquefort
cheese and smoked meats.
Why not drink sake and be a local trend setter. The market for premium sake has grown and
exports to the U.S. have broken records in the last few years. One well-known sake expert, John Gaunter, who has a great, info-filled website on sake (www.sake-world.com) says
“there is no bad sake on the market, and even the worst is pretty good”. Like wine, sake has a variety of flavors and
aromas, with something to suit everyone’s palate. One of my friends loves the milky white nigori while another can’t get enough of
the cheap hot sake at her local Japanese restaurant. A fun option I’ve found is sparkling sake. Gekkeikan imports something called Zipang,
which is a naturally carbonated junmai
sake that is sweet and refreshingly light at 7% alcohol/volume. It is sold in local Asian markets like Oto’s. Another brand, Sake2me, is infused with
Asian flavors like yuzu, ginger and Asian pear.
I’ve seen this on the menu at Mix and it’s usually on the shelf at
Raleys.
If you are ready to dip your toe in, know that premium sake
is best served slightly chilled as warming it can ruin the complexity of aromas
and flavors. Ordinary table sake, futsushu
can be served at room temperature or slightly warm, as can kimoto and yamahai sakes. If you’d like
to really get your traditional Japanese on, ask for your slightly warmed sake to
be served in the pouring vessel called a tokkuri,
and be sure to drink it out of a tiny porcelain cup called a guinomi or choko. Ancient custom gently demands one never pour
for oneself, unless drinking alone. One
picks up the tokkuri and offers to
pour for their friend, who should always be holding the choko in their hand. There
is also a custom of drinking sake from another’s cup; if you want to whoop it
up with your pals, the one considered more junior asks their senior to “please
allow me to drink from your cup”, the senior downs the filled cup and passes it
to the junior, it gets refilled and slugged back by the junior who fills it
again and passes it back, completing the exchange. This can go on and on until everyone is,
well, drunk, and that’s ok according to the book The History and Culture of
Japanese Food, because ancient Japanese practice reminds us that becoming
intoxicated from the same cup is a means of establishing solidarity. And with that, my friends, I leave you with
one final term from my Japanese journey, Kanpai,
which not surprisingly means cheers!
Last week I attended a wine tasting and blending class held at the Sacramento Restaurant/Winebar Enotria. Under the guidance of new and rather dapper General Manager Anani Tayikos Lawson (formerly of The French Laundry and Per Se), Enotria is in the process of developing a wine education program, and from what I saw, I have great expectations.
This first class featured famed Bonny Doon founder and vintner, Randall Graham. For over 30 years, this California winemaker has waxed poetic on life, wine and the two combined. He has even referred to wine as "bottled poetry". This is my second time attending something led by this dynamic winemaker; last year I heard him as the keynote speaker at the 2012 Wine Blogger's Conference in Portland. I love his style and philosophy. In Portland he spoke of how he doesn't enjoy the wine business as much as he used to. The competition is too crazy and the price of great wine has gone through the roof. According to Mr. Graham, (or Rebbe, as he was nicknamed in some recent Tweets I was following), winemaking used to be about possibility
and discovery, mistakes were forgiven, and diversity of style was appreciated. Thirty-plus years ago, winemakers used to be able to say “I make
wine to please myself”, sadly, these days wine production is too expensive and modern winemakes must deal with associated economic consequences and stylistic
parameters.
He spoke of the nexus between wine writers and reviewers and trends in wines. He also spoke of how bloggers/writers should take the opportunity to ponder and write about wine from a metadiscussion perspective, focussing on what wine can teach us about being human, about beauty and about the natural world itself. It behooves us to show up for the wine, Graham says, and if it is magical let it inspire us. How could I not go see him in Sacramento..he's a bit like a guru!
At Enotria, Randall led us in tasting the single varietal components of Le Cigare Volant, his famous Rhone inspired red blend of Cinsault, Mourvedre, Grenache and Syrah. It was so interesting to taste each wine, concentrate on the characteristics of each, and then go through the exercise of attempting to create a blended wine that showcased the best features of each varietal. He, himself, will be sitting down soon with these exact wines to create the specific Bonny Doon blend for this vintage. In another lovely part of the evening, we had the opportunity to do an elevage tasting of four examples of 2008 Le Cigare Volant-each the product of a different aging scenario. This type of activity is such a beneficial wine education experience for anyone trying to learn the nuances of wine.
I'm reading a book by Simon Sinek entitled Start with Why. The premise is that there are great leaders who inspire us to take action. The main way in which they do so is by presenting a clear message of WHY they do what they do, produce what they produce, sell what they sell. It is not the emphasis on WHAT they do, produce or sell. And when the WHY shines through with great clarity, we, humanity, tend to buy-in. Our limbic brains buy in to philosophies and purpose and we want to be a part of that, regardless of any specific product offered.
In the book the best example is Apple. Apple has crafted their WHY extremely well; Apple continues to market themselves as a company that challenges the status quo, a company that thinks differently than any other. Many companies make high quality Mp3 players, but people flock to iPods... they want to be affiliated with that status quo-challenging philosophy and lifestyle created by Steve Jobs.
In my opinion, Randall Graham is like a Steve Jobs in the wine world. He has challenged some New World trends in wine-making, and at most times has marched to the beat of his own drummer. Through the years, Graham has continued to make wines that are balanced, easily drinkable, and affordable. His wines often attempt and succeed at showing a sense of place, respecting the interelationship of grape and land. There is clarity regarding WHY he makes wine the way he does. That is why I, and countless others, enjoy his products. Recently, Sacramento winemaker Craig Haarmeyer, of Revolution Wines, told me via Twitter that he has immense respect for Randall because they are after similar things in vinification...making wines that don't fit the California mold. Many of us enjoy that perspective that Graham has brought to the conversation.
Randall calls his Le Cigare Volant a Meditation Wine, a Dream Wine...not really a Food Wine. I'll be in search of a just such a Dream Wine this evening. xoSB
If you enjoy presidential history, you may enjoy this Wine Spectator article on the wine drinking habits and trends of some of our contemporary leaders. Cheers! XO SB
When I flew earlier this week I was one of the 15 Business Select Passengers on my flight--ooo la la. Getting to be at the front of the boarding line for "cattle-call" air is always nice; I appreciate the opportunity to pop my bag into the overhead bin before the general pushing and shoving begins and of course I was thrilled to grab something other than that middle seat. But we all know the big beni is the free cocktail coupon. My instinct has always been "go for the hard stuff"--Finlandia is Finlandia, right, and Bacardi is Bacardi... a win-win on all accounts. But, I thought it'd be fun to expand my wine palate and give that tiny 187ml bottle of Coastal Ridge Merlot a try. I know what Miles said in Sideways, but I actually like Merlot, and I have had a few experiences with drinkable inexpensive examples. Inexpensive, from my perspective, being maybe $8-10 for a 750ml bottle.
The 2011 vintage was pretty aromatic; I could smell it from the tray in the aisle. Strangely, it had an overwhelming aroma of Pinot or an Australian Shiraz, so much so, I went back to the galley later to take a peak at the bottle. I was hard pressed to believe it was Merlot, as it was unlike any I'd ever had. It was a light-bodied, translucent wine, the color of berry juice and had peppery acidity and lackluster tannins. I perceived a bit of cherry and vanilla at the finish, which in itself was relatively nonexistent; the wine couldn't wait to be done doing it's thing in my mouth. It reminded me of a really inexpensive French negociant wine that you might pick up for $4 at Trader Joes. That's about all I can say about the wine itself.
Before I write my reviews, I research specs online (I always do this after I'm done tasting and note taking). During my research, I quickly tune into the three clues that indicate I'm likely dealing with a mass produced, bulk wine. Firstly, I have a very difficult time tracking down winery information for these wines. When I do find my first reference, it is usually on a distributor's website, contained within a list of numerous producers of California wine, none of whom most of us have ever heard of. Half of the time, the website links for info don't even work and I've yet to actually find an address for any of these wineries. I'm sure if I used the services of a forensic computer techy, I could locate one.
Secondly, these types of wine will often have an impressive place name for the winery (e.g., Napa Valley) on the distributor trade sheets. As a consumer, it is important to know that doesn't mean you are drinking a wine made from grapes grown in the Napa Valley. A wine labelled Coastal Ridge Napa Valley California Merlot can mean you are drinking a wine where previously purchased juice is simply blended and bottled in some nondescript warehouse somewhere within the geographic boundaries of Napa Valley. Think industrialized wine factory--not bucolic family vineyard. These wines also often have "California" listed as their appellation. Here is why it is helpful to have a general understanding of wine labelling laws--when the appellation name "California" shows up on a bottle, the grapes, by law, can be grown anywhere in the state and thrown together to make wine. You can bet, the overwheming majority come from the non-AVA delineated Central Valley of California, where little attempt is made to farm grapes for sophisticated wines--at least for the bulk market.
Last clue: after lengthy attempts to sleuth things out, my online searches will often yield one or two veiled references to small agriculural towns in the Valley. This time I spotted Ceres, located just outside of Modesto. My guess is some or all of the grapes were sourced from around there--just as I had suspected.
One last tidbit on label laws. Remember, a varietally labelled wine (e.g., Merlot) only needs to contain 75% of that grape. In this instance, the wine contains 76% Merlot, 4% Segalin and 20% Proprietary Blend. I was intrigued by Segalin, which I'd never heard of and found out that it is a cross between two red grape varieties used in the southwest of France. Their use adds structure and color to single varietal wines. As for the "Proprietary Blend", I'll need to delve deeper into labelling laws, because I'm curious how they get away with that. Regardless, it makes me think there is some Pinot Noir or Syrah, based on the aromas I perceived on the plane.
So how much does Coastal Ridge cost? I was able to spot a case for about $80, about $6.70/750ml. When you do the math, it comes out to about $1.50 for that little airplane bottle, and that's retail, who knows what kind of wholesale discount Southwest gets. I'd say the freebie they pass on to their 'select' passengers is practically a freebie to them! In case you want to head out and pick up some of this wine, which I don't really recommend, I did find it online in the following local spots:
-The Shell Station in Rancho Cordova
-China Buffet in Stockton
-Cost Less Mkt in Modesto
-Shakey's in Oroville
and Dotty's Casino in Sparks NV.
Now you know why the wine drinkers on a Southwest flight are all drinking Bloody Marys! xoSB
Here are portions from an upcoming article I have written for Edible Sacramento. Look for Port 101: An Everyday Primer in the Winter 2013 edition online and at local distribution points in February.
During the months of the year when the Valley fog chills you
to your very core, it is not uncommon to hark back to the virtues of port. Few beverages can bring warmth to a frozen
body - this fortified wine, with its alcohol level approaching 20%, is one of
them. Through the centuries port has
captured the souls of travelling sea farers, the British Aristocracy and
everyday man. Nary an episode of Downton Abbey goes by without Lord
Grantham slugging back some of the stuff.
There are a number of liberties taken by port makers around
the world, which can be frustrating when trying to define different port
styles. I’m giving it the ole’ college
try. The jewel of the port world is
Vintage port. The most expensive of all
ports, a vintage blend is aged a short
time in cask and if the port of that year is determined to be superior and
age-worthy, it is “declared” as a vintage and
bottled unfiltered and unfined and left to age in the bottle. These
ports are not usually ready to drink for 20-30 years and can last up to 100
years or more! These decadent ports are loaded with sludge, and upon opening, require
skilled decanting to rid the wine of sediment.
Crusted port is sort of the cheap man’s vintage port. It is a blend of vintages that is bottled
without fining and filtration, resulting in “crust” or deposits of sediment in
the bottle. It is exported and ready to
drink three years after bottling; it requires decantation.
In the cask aged
category, red ports are traditionally young, fiery, fruity and a blend of both vintages
and vineyards. Ruby is the simplest
port, and a Reserva is basically a Ruby on steroids. Both are produced using deep and dark red
grapes (i.e., Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Touriga Barroca, Tinto Cao, and
Tinta Roriz) and aged approximately 1-3 years before bottling. These wines are technically ready to drink
upon release. Some Ruby and Reserva
ports are produced from single vineyards (or quintas) and single vintages. LBV (late
bottled vintage) is essentially a Ruby of a specific vintage that stays in cask
for 4-6 years and is subsequently bottled.
It requires no additional aging in the bottle, and depending upon
whether it has undergone filtration, an LBV may need to be decanted. These ports are often made from vintages
deemed quite good, but not technically “declared vintage” years.
Tawnies are likely named as such as because they are
brownish and tawny in color. Light or young
tawnies-often the same age as comparably priced ruby ports- usually acquire
their coloring from a bit of oak aging, but also from the fact that they are
produced using grapes from slightly cooler areas of port grape regions,
resulting in less intensity of color.
Additionally, sometimes, port made from white grapes is added, also
affecting color. These lighter, crisp
and acidic tawnies are quite popular as chilled aperitifs in France.
Aged Tawnies are intense and nutty and have spent a minimum
of 6 years in cask. Deeply tawny in color,
these ports often display caramel and butterscotch flavors within their silky
texture. The best tawnies are identified
as aged in cask either 10-20-30- or- Over 40 years. As bottled tawnies are a blend of vintages, true age is approximate, except in the case of
Colheitas, which are tawnies produced from a single vintage.
White port, also aged in cask, is relatively uncommon
outside the continent, and is made from, you
guessed it, white grapes; some examples are dry, others quite sweet.
I chose to study a couple local ports produced by
Revolution Wines and one by Bogle Winery.
I have tasted these ports in the past and wanted to have my own little
“throw-down”. In an interview and visit with
Revolution’s winemaker, Craig Haarmeyer, I learned about the two styles they
offer: the 2009 St. Rey Single Quinta Ruby Port, and the 2008 St. Rey LBV. It was great to be able to observe the
differences between the two styles.
Both Revolution products are made from rare and traditional Portuguese grape varieties including
Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cao, Tempranillo, Souzao and Alvarelhao. All of the grapes are sourced from the Silva Spoon Vineyard of Ron Silva—for
all intent and purpose a “quinta”, located in the Alta Mesa appellation in
Galt. Haarmeyer buys roughly equal
amounts of the varieties, ferments them separately and then makes his decision
on the exact blend.
...The first words that came to mind for me when I tasted the Revolution ports were “surprising” and “elegant”...
Read the complete background story on port, as well as detailed reviews for Revolution, Bogle and a 1955 Antonio da Rocha Leao Vintage Port in February. xoSB
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